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Standard on all models except for #1, #2800, #3800, #5800,
however this option is available upon request.
This door is provided “non pre-hung”
meaning the doors’ frame, or as we refer to as z-bar, is sent non-attached to
the door. Professional installers prefer this method over pre-hanging
because it gives them the flexibility to determine gaps and tolerances between
the door and z-bar, resulting in a more accurate fit. This procedure
takes only a few extra minutes
and does not require a great deal of expertise.
Standard Opening
Sizes
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32" X 80 " |
36" x 80" |
| Width Allowance |
31 3/4" to 32 1/4" |
35 3/4" to 36 1/4" |
| Height Allowance |
79 1/2" to 80 1/2" |
79 1/2" to 80 1/2" |
Tool Required
| 3/8" Electric Drill |
5/16” Hex Driver |
| Phillips Screwdriver |
1/8” Drill Bit |
| Standard Screwdriver |
1/4” Drill Bit |
| Hacksaw |
Wood Chisel |
| Tape Measure |
Pencil |
Preparation of Opening
Standard door openings are trimmed with a wood referred to as
“brick mold.” This trim is used to cover the gap between the door casing,
brick, siding, etc. (see Fig.1). If you do not have brick mold, it may be
necessary to obtain the size needed to accommodate the width and height of your
security/storm door. By using brick mold, the width and height can be adjusted
by decreasing or increasing the reveal (see Fig.1).

If you already have brick mold and your opening is within
1/2” of standard size either cut, shim or remove and readjust brick mold to
obtain standard range of dimensions (see standard opening sizes).
If shimming is necessary we suggest doing so at the latch
side and cutting at the hinge side. If the reveal at the latch side is made
deeper than 1/2” the dead bolt portion of the lock will be too close to the main
door jamb. This will make turning the dead bolt difficult from the inside.
Check the brick mold to make sure it’s secured properly to
the jamb. It is quite common for builders to use staples, which is not suitable
for the weight added by a security door. Just to be safe we suggest re-nailing,
although avoid placing nails near the lock area.
Step 1:
Pre-Drill Header
Measure and pencil mark holes 3-1/8” holes 1/4” from edge as
indicated below (see Fig.2). Drill.

Step
2:
Pre-Drill Latch
Side Z-bar
Before drilling determine the top from the bottom,
the latch hole is punched from the top down to align with dead lock. Pencil
mark an X at the bottom of z-bar. Measure, pencil Mark and drill 6-1/8”
holes 1/4” from edge as indicated (see Fig.3).
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Step 3:
Pre-Drill Hinge Side Z-bar
Before drill determine the top from the bottom,
pencil mark an X at the bottom of z-bar. Measure, pencil mark and
drill 4-1/8” holes 1/4” from edge as indicated
(see Fig.4). |
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Step 4: Measure Opening Height
Measure the opening height (see Fig.5). Lay
z-bars on a flat surface. Pencil mark the bottom ends of both z-bars
1/8”shorter than opening size. Use hacksaw to cut z-bars accordingly.
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Step 5:
Install Header
Place header into door opening and install 1-#8x2
Phillips heads screw into the hole by the hinge side. (see Fig. 6).
Remember to pre-drill holes on a wood jamb to avoid splitting
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Step 6: Install Hinge Side Z-bar
Place hinge side z-bar tight against Opening and install 4-#8x1 Phillips Head
screws through pre-drilled holes. (See. Fig 4)
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Step 7: Install Door
Remove all packaging materials open hinges and place door into opening leaving a
1/8” to 3/16” margin between the door, header and hinge side z-bar. Drill 1 hole
at the center of each hinge and install 3- #10x2 Hex head screws (see Fig 7).
Now adjust header to create equal space between the door and install the
remaining2-#8x1 Phillips screws.
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Step
8: Install Lockset
(standard 2 way lockset)
Click here for
lockset manufactures installation instructions (PDF).
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Step 9: Mark For Lockset Deadbolt
Open the door, hold the latch side
z-bar in place against the jamb and pencil
mark the pre-punched holes for the lockset (see Fig.8).
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Step 10: Chisel Latch Side Jamb for Lockset Deadbolt
Remove the latch side z-bar and
measure the extended deadbolt for depth to avoid cutting the
brick mold deeper than necessary (see Fig. 9). Undercutting
could result in lock failure. Measure the depth of the latch
as well, this may or may not require chiseling
depending on your jamb. Now carefully chisel the
wood to allow the deadbolt and/or latch to pass
through the z-bar and into the brick mold.
Make sure there is no interference
between
the locking mechanism and wood.
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Step 11: Install
Latch Side Z-bar
Open door. Place latch side z-bar into the opening, close door
allowing a 1/8” to 3/16” margin between door and latch side z-bar. Install
6-#8x1Phillips head screws at the pre-drilled
locations (see Fig 3). If there is a gap between door jamb and z-bar it will be
necessary to fill with wood shim materials.
Step 12: Install
Brass Striker Plate
Install striker plate over z-bar with the 3 brass flat head screws, using a 1/8”
drill bit.
Drill only the z-bar allowing the brass screws to self tap into the wood (see
Fig 8). Check the
operation of the deadbolt and latch opening and closing the door. Operate the
door dead bolt
several times with the door in the closed position to check the alignment of the
hole cut
in the jamb. If binding occurs it may be necessary to repeat step 9.
Step 13: Complete
Installation of Hinge Side Z-bar
Pre-drill the remaining 6-1/8” hinge holes and insert #10x2 Hex head screws (see
Fig 7).
Step 14: Install
Rubber Sweep
Slide rubber sweep through slotted track in expander. Cut off excess rubber
leaving
approximately 1/4” overlap at both ends. Note: there are 2 slots on the
expander. Chose the
track in which you will get the smoothest contact at the threshold (see Fig.10).

Step 15: Install
Expander
Open door and slide expander over door bottom. Short side of expander to fit
towards the inside
of the door. Adjust up or down until the rubber sweep makes contact with the
threshold.
Drill 2 holes through the expander and into the inside lower door rail. Insert
2-#8x1” Phillips
screws (see Fig. 10).
Step 16: Install Optional Vault Pin
Vault pins are used for added security, preventing unwanted entry if the hinges
are removed. Vault pin holes come pre-drilled on only the “Traditional Series”
doors, all other models
require pre-drilling.
With the door open measure both the bottom and top holes. Close the door. Mark
the location of the hole at the z-bar. Drill 2 holes into the z-bar and wood the
depth of the thread on the vault pin. Screw the 2 pins into the wood, leaving
the plain portion of the pin exposed so that when the door is closed the vault
pin enters the predrilled hole in the security door (see Fig. 11).
If your model does not include vault pins and you wish to add, do the following.
Drill 2- ea. 3/8” diameter holes on the edge of the door approximately 9” from
both ends. Contact your dealer to order vault pins.

Step 13: Install Closer and Wind Chain
(standard air pneumatic closer)
Click here for manufactures
closer installation instructions (pdf).
Click here for manufactures
wind chain installation instructions (pdf).
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