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Preparation of Opening
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Standard door openings are trimmed with a wood referred to as “brick mold.” This trim is used to cover the gap between the door casing, brick, siding, etc. (see Fig.1). If you do not have brick mold, it may be necessary to obtain the size needed to accommodate the width and height of your security/storm door. By using brick mold, the width and height can be adjusted by decreasing or increasing the reveal (see Fig.1).
If you already have brick mold and your opening is within 1/2” of standard size either cut, shim or remove and readjust brick mold to obtain standard range of dimensions (see standard opening sizes).
If shimming is necessary we suggest doing so at the latch side and cutting at the hinge side. If the reveal at the latch side is made deeper than 1/2” the dead bolt portion of the lock will be too close to the main door jamb. This will make turning the dead bolt difficult from the inside.
Check the brick mold to make sure it’s secured properly to the jamb. It is quite common for builders to use staples, which is not suitable for the weight added by a security door. Just to be safe we suggest re-nailing, although avoid placing nails near the lock area.
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Step 1: Pre-Drill Header
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Measure and pencil mark holes 3-1/8” holes 1/4” from edge as indicated below (see Fig.2). Drill.
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Step 2: Pre-Drill Latch Side Z-bar
Before drilling determine the top from the bottom, the latch hole is punched from the top down to align with dead lock. Pencil mark an X at the bottom of z-bar. Measure, pencil Mark and drill 6-1/8” holes 1/4” from edge as indicated (see Fig.3).
Step 3: Pre-Drill Hinge Side Z-bar
Before drilling determine the top from the bottom, the latch hole is punched from the top down to align with dead lock. Pencil mark an X at the bottom of z-bar. Measure, pencil Mark and drill 6-1/8” holes 1/4” from edge as indicated (see Fig.3).
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Step 4: Measure Opening Height
Measure the opening height (see Fig.5). Lay z-bars on a flat surface. Pencil mark the bottom ends of both z-bars 1/8”shorter than opening size. Use hacksaw to cut z-bars accordingly.
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Step 5: Install Header
Place header into door opening and install 1-#8x2 Phillips heads screw into the hole by the hinge side. (see Fig. 6). Remember to pre-drill holes on a wood jamb to avoid splitting
Step 6: Install Hinge Side Z-bar
Place hinge side z-bar tight against Opening and install 4-#8x1 Phillips Head screws through pre-drilled holes. (See. Fig 4)
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Step 7: Install Door
Remove all packaging materials open hinges and place door into opening leaving a 1/8” to 3/16” margin between the door, header and hinge side z-bar. Drill 1 hole at the center of each hinge and install 3- #10x2 Hex head screws (see Fig 7). Now adjust header to create equal space between the door and install the remaining2-#8x1 Phillips screws.
Step 8: Install Lockset
(standard 2 way lockset)
Click here for lockset manufactures installation instructions (PDF).
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Step 9: Mark For Lockset Deadbolt
Open the door, hold the latch side z-bar in place against the jamb and pencil mark the pre-punched holes for the lockset (see Fig.8).
Step 10: Chisel Latch Side Jamb for Lockset Deadbolt
Remove the latch side z-bar and measure the extended deadbolt for depth to avoid cutting the brick mold deeper than necessary (see Fig. 9). Undercutting could result in lock failure. Measure the depth of the latch as well, this may or may not require chiseling depending on your jamb. Now carefully chisel the wood to allow the deadbolt and/or latch to pass through the z-bar and into the brick mold. Make sure there is no interference betweenthe locking mechanism and wood.
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Step 11: Install Latch Side Z-bar
Open door. Place latch side z-bar into the opening, close door allowing a 1/8” to 3/16” margin between door and latch side z-bar. Install 6-#8x1Phillips head screws at the pre-drilled
Step 12: Install Brass Striker Plate
Install striker plate over z-bar with the 3 brass flat head screws, using a 1/8” drill bit. Drill only the z-bar allowing the brass screws to self tap into the wood (see Fig 8). Check the operation of the deadbolt and latch opening and closing the door. Operate the door dead bolt several times with the door in the closed position to check the alignment of the hole cut in the jamb. If binding occurs it may be necessary to repeat step 9.
Step 13: Complete Installation of Hinge Side Z-bar
Pre-drill the remaining 6-1/8” hinge holes and insert #10x2 Hex head screws (see Fig 7).
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Step 14: Install Rubber Sweep
Slide rubber sweep through slotted track in expander. Cut off excess rubber leaving approximately 1/4” overlap at both ends. Note: there are 2 slots on the expander. Chose the track in which you will get the smoothest contact at the threshold (see Fig.10).
Step 15: Install Expander
Open door and slide expander over door bottom. Short side of expander to fit towards the inside of the door. Adjust up or down until the rubber sweep makes contact with the threshold. Drill 2 holes through the expander and into the inside lower door rail. Insert 2-#8x1” Phillipsscrews (see Fig. 10).
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Step 16: Install Optional Vault Pin
Vault pins are used for added security, preventing unwanted entry if the hinges are removed. Vault pin holes come pre-drilled on only the “Traditional Series” doors, all other models require pre-drilling.
With the door open measure both the bottom and top holes. Close the door. Mark the location of the hole at the z-bar. Drill 2 holes into the z-bar and wood the depth of the thread on the vault pin. Screw the 2 pins into the wood, leaving the plain portion of the pin exposed so that when the door is closed the vault pin enters the predrilled hole in the security door (see Fig. 11).
If your model does not include vault pins and you wish to add, do the following. Drill 2- ea. 3/8” diameter holes on the edge of the door approximately 9” from both ends. Contact your dealer to order vault pins.
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Step 17: Install Closer and Wind Chain
(standard air pneumatic closer)
Click here for manufactures closer installation instructions (pdf).
Click here for manufactures wind chain installation instructions (pdf).
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